My Dearest Le Mans ...
You’ve been on my bucket list for quite some time. I didn’t have a time frame, I simply thought that I would eventually make it.
That all changed when I learned that 2023 was the 100th anniversary of the Le Mans car race. I stumbled upon it just over a year ago and I simply knew I had to be there. There’s something about attending anniversary celebrations that sets the commemoration apart from all others. 1986 was the first centennial celebration I remember. The year my city, Pasadena, turned 100 I was in the fifth grade and in drill team. I can still do some of the moves. The centennial parade was a fraction of the size of the Tournament of Rose Parade, but it somehow felt bigger – there was an unquantifiable energy about it in the air. Since then, I have been present at the 100th Rose Parade and 75 years of D-Day in Normandy, and I’ve marched with the Rose Parade Suffragette float, commemorating 100 years of women’s voting rights.
Taking part in these grand celebrations reminds me of those who were lucky enough to participate in some of history’s most iconic events, like the Paris Exposition of 1889 – the centennial of the Storming of the Bastille and the beginning of the French Revolution – and the Centennial International Exhibition of 1876 in Philadelphia commemorating the signing of the Declaration of Independence.
Seine River Cruise
I picked up Danny at the Gare du Nord, and over dinner, we caught up on each other’s lives over the past few months. The next morning, we got up early to benefit from the few hours we had before we had to catch the train to Le Mans. My favorite way to see Paris is on a Seine River Cruise, as it’s away from the crowded subways, and offers unencumbered views of the some of the world’s most iconic locations and a breeze that makes you forget you’re in the middle of a hot and muggy summer.
Danny wasn’t thrilled about paying 16€ for the tour, but the added luxury of being off his feet, getting some Instagram worthy shots, and an English-speaking tour guide changed his tune. We saw the Eiffel Tower, Ile de la Cité, the Louvre, le Grand Palais, and the Musée d’Orsay – all from the comfort of our sundrenched deck. We saw everything except for the one monument that has eluded me for years – the Statue of Liberty.
The Statue of Liberty
I told Danny all about my Liberty woes and since his New York trip was hijacked by COVID-19, he had a keen interest in seeing her himself. What appeared to be a short distance on the map turned out to be a 25-minute walk south of our location along the Seine. Sunbaked and sweaty, we finally arrived – and there she was in all her glory and splendor. We knew she was a fraction of the size of New York’s Statue of Liberty, and yet she was much larger than either of us had imagined. We greeted Lady Liberty, took pictures, and left with just enough time to enjoy a salad. Coincidentally, we stumbled upon a restaurant was right across the street from the bridge that Danny recognized from the film Inception. We had our salad, and off we went to catch our train from Montparnasse Bienvenu to Le Mans.
I took advantage of the two-hour SNCF train ride to take a nap. Buses and the TGV are also an option, but we preferred the train. We arrived, had a pizza, and took a taxi to meet our host family. Le Mans is in a rural area of France and many families take advantage of this iconic event to make extra cash from racing fans. We were no exception, and we were grateful to have found accommodations for the sold-out event.
Our hosts couldn’t have been more gracious. They treated us like family, made us a hearty breakfast, and even gave us a ride to town for the festivities that evening and Le Mans for race day. Crowds at the event topped 300,000, doubling and in some cases tripling previous attendance records. But Le Mans had 100 years to prepare for this occasion and judging by the smiles on everyone’s faces, they got it right. The weeklong event featured qualifying races, car parades, concerts, fireworks, displays, a fair, a food court village, flyovers, and even a car museum. One weekend wasn’t nearly enough to cover all the planned activities, nor a fraction of the 14-kilometer track. Those who had been planning a decade for this arrived a week early, set up camp, and mastered the itinerary. As jet lagged novices, on a tight schedule, and a 24-hour time frame, we had the odds stacked against us, but we were determined to get in as much fun and excitement as we could.
First, we needed to locate Ron.
Danny was still clueless about Ron’s arrival, and although Ron had given me his general coordinates, I wasn’t confident I would find him among a sea of thousands. Ron said he’d be waiting just over Dunlap Bridge. After walking for about 20 minutes, I was relieved to finally catch a glimpse of the famed bridge. I picked up my stride – I knew I had to find Ron first to have enough time to pull out my phone and film the reunion. At the top of the bridge, I caught sight of Ron. Towering over six feet tall, it was easy to spot him. I waved to make sure he saw me; I ran down the stairs and gave him a big hug. I scrambled for my phone, waved to Danny and caught the moment with my camera. We all smiled, laughed, and cheered. Best moment award.
Ron picked up some champagne and we all waited for that special moment, the start of the 100th Le Mans race. Anticipation mounted as the Marseillaise was sung and the military flyover donned the colors of the French flag: blue, white and red. And off they went! For the next 24 hours, three pilots would take turns in eight-hour shifts, to get that coveted number one spot. Toyota was at number one, just ahead of Ferrari for much of the race, however, in a 24-hour race it comes down to science, skill, and pure dumb luck. Ferrari won! A major comeback for the car legend that had been absent from the race for more than 50 years, once again reclaiming its status. Toyota came in second and Cadillac in third.
And with that, my dearest Le Mans, you’re much more than a legendary car race. You are a celebration of life, a place where old friends gather year after year, and a town where locals welcome strangers and treat them like family. Until we meet again.
Love always,
Susana Porras
